Rose Planting in Garden, Pots & Containers
The knowledge on Rose Planting in Garden, Pots & Containers and the knowledge of Cooking, at first sight seems that they don’t have any relationship – besides the fact of knowledge itself.
However, by looking at the issue in depth, the incomprehensible editorial team of ‘Kalliergeia‘ has found a great deal of similarities, which will emerge in yet another future tribute, precisely on this subject.
Until then, the our always patient, unique and unparalleled reader shall be content with the present article, which has as its sole theme the rose planting in the garden, pots & containers.
… And a cooking idea.
About Cooking & Roses
If, among other things, the quality of ingredients makes the good cook, then, mutatis mutandis, the same applies to the rose planting, as well as to the successful creation of a small or a big rose garden.
Of course, in order to to give substance to the vision, a prerequisite is the existence or the supply of the right rose plants. But how can somebody choose the right roses? This is the issue and this is being examined right away.
What is not examined – for the moment – is the cooking of the roses.
Select of Rose Plants
The select of rose plants is based, on some criteria. Of these, the most important are:
- the soil and climate conditions prevailing in the planting area,
- the exposure
- the form or type of roses
- the status of the plants.
It is almost self-evident that the plant lover tries to choose quality and healthy rose plants. But what roses are of high quality and do they look like and indeed are healthy?
- Are those whose canes are plump
- Are the well branched plants that have also fibrous root system
- Are those whose canes and tissues are free of deteriorations
- The roses do not show signs of fungal and other pathogens affects
- Are rose plants that are not dehydrated and do not have shriveled bark
The plant lover must also keep in mind that nurseries and garden centers most often offer the bare root roses coated with wax. This is an excellent technique to keep the tissues of the roses dehydrated and therefore is not a problem.
Of course it is not a problem as long as the temperatures are low. But as soon as temperatures start to rise, wax coating can become a really big problem. Therefor, it is recommended to the plant lover, at that time, does not choose them.
And one that made reference to the temperatures it must be said and this: it is still recommended to the plant lover not to choose bare root roses, to which the new vegetation has begun. Most of the time, planting such roses will fail.
It is known that the roses are categorized and offered in different forms. Some of them are dwarf, other are shrubs, some other climbers and other trees. On the basis of these differentiations, it is recommended to the plant lover and amateur grower to obtain only the form of roses that meets the functional requirements of the planting site.
In other words, it might be unreasonable to choose a truly dwarf variety of the Micro Miniature Roses type, such as ‘Pieces of Eight‘, to cover a pergola, as it would probably be wholly inappropriate to plant a ground cover rose in the center of a lawn.
Although there are many common features between the species of rose and its requirements in terms of soil, climate and exposure, there are also variations here. Indeed, it could be said that there are significant variations even between varieties of one and the same species.
The knowledge of both the microclimate of the planting area and the soil conditions, as well as the rose species and varieties that fully correspond to them, is essential for the proper selection of the plants.
Still, the plant lover should be mindful of how a rose plant behaves in relation to the exposure. Although roses generally need several hours of direct exposure to the sun to grow properly and show satisfactory flowering, there are also shade tolerant roses.
So if the planting position is shady, it would not be a bad idea for the plant lover, to choose such a rose, for example a ‘Rosy Purple‘, which belongs to the Hybrid Musk Roses and presents a repetitive aromatic and pink flower blooming.
About Soil & Soil Mixes
Before planting the rose garden in the garden and pot, it would not be completely useless for the plant lover and amateur gardener to know the requirements of the plant and the soil conditions favorable to its development.
Suitable soil for planting the rose is the sandy loam, which is fertile, contains plenty of organic matter and still drains excellently.
Rose plants generally show remarkable pH adaptability. And although they can tolerand a wide range of values ranging between 4.5 and 8, they grow well at pH 5.5 to 7, but thrive in the slightly acidic soil with values ranging from 6 to 6.5.
Of course, the more the soil reaches the extreme values, the more problems arise for the availability of nutrients and especially of the trace elements.
Rose plants does not tolerate the presence of aquifer, which is near the surface of the soil. The groundwater table should be at least 1.5 m away from the ground surface. In any other case, rose plants growing will become problematic and can lead up to complete destruction.
From the above, it is easy to conclude that the greater the difference between the actual condition of the soil and the requirements of the rose plants, the greater the effort to improve it with the use of the appropriate materials and techniques, but also with the inevitable natural financial burden of the plant lover.
On the other hand, for roses planted in pots or containers, things, in one aspect, seem to be and are infinitely easier: choosing the right materials and following the best technique can create a soil substrate that fully meets the requirements of the rose plants.
Preparation of Soil & Soil Mixes
Garden or cultivation works that, strangely, is used to precede the planting of any plant in the garden, also applies to the roses. And, of course, similar preparation is also being made for the preparation of the appropriate soil mixture that will accommodate the plant in a pot or in a a container.
In relation to soil preparations, they vary according to the intended area for rose planting. So different technique and means are chosen for large-scale rose plantings and different for small-scale plantings, as will be seen immediately below.
The plant lover and amateur grower who intends to create a large-scale rose garden should think twice about it: once whether he has the right means and a second one if he does not have them, if it is worth the cost of their supply.
Since the answer to the aforementioned questions is affirmative, then the amateur gardener can safely go ahead by doing the following:
- Initially a good ploughing up to 60 cm, incorporating 30 to 40 tons per hectare of disinfected manure or compost
- After 10 to 15 days, spreading with a cultivator or performing a normal plowing depth of up to 40 cm with simultaneous incorporation of 1000 kg per hectare of phosphorus fertilizer
- Finally, after 10 to 15 days he will tilling, flatten the surface, mark the planting holes and perform the drilling of the holes
Of course, in order to open the holes the plant lover or the amateur grower, should know the recommended distances for rose planting and the recommended dimensions of the holes.
- In general speaking, it could be said to the diligent plant lover and amateur grower that the distances for the rose planting depend on its form, its type and variety
- Also speaking in general, it could be said to the diligent plant lover and amateur grower that the planting distances of the roses range from 0.30 m for Polyanthas and Miniatures and up to 3 m for the Climbing Roses
- Even more generally speaking, it could be said both to the diligent plant lover and amateur grower, and to the ever-patient and comprehensible reader of ‘Kalliergeia‘ that the editorial team of this extremely popular site is committed to a special tribute on planting distances of each type of rose plants
As for the dimensions of the planting holes, however, the editorial team can be refers here and now: holes should have a diameter of twice than that of the roots and a depth slightly greater than that of the root system.
Also, it is useful for spreading and guiding the roots of the plant, that the bottom of the planting hole must have a diameter of 1/3 smaller than that of the surface.
Instead, placing any aggregate material for drainage purposes should be avoided because it does not have the slightest value.
If the groundwater table is high, or the area to be planted is almost permanently waterlogged, then it is necessary to make French drains or even a whole drainage network.
If the plant lover does not wish to engage in such an interesting adventure, there is an alternative: he can create raised beds 30 to 50 cm above the existing grade and plant the roses there.
For small-scale rose planting, work is greatly simplified, and the plant lover can move forward. How?
- First of all, by opening the holes whose depth and diameter should be twice as large as the corresponding dimensions of the roots
- After 10 to 15 days he will come back and fill the one-third of each hole with a soil mix consisting of 50% existing soil, 40% of neutral pH compost and 10% of peat, to which add 150 g phosphorus/potassium fertilizer and 100 g of sulfur
- Immediately afterwards, he will cover the hole with the above-mentioned soil mix – but now without the fertilizer and the sulfur
- Finally, after another 10 to 15 days, he will carry out the final drilling of the holes and in such a way that their depth is slightly larger than that of the root system of the plants and the diameter is twice as large as that of the rose plant roots
The rose planting in pots or containers, enables the ability to the amateur gardener to create or supply the appropriate soil substrate for the unobstructed growth of the plant.
If he chooses to create it, the editorial team of ‘Kalliergeia‘ is willing to share the following recipe with him:
- High quality potting soil or red soil 50%
- Compost of neutral pH 10%
- Peat 10%
- River sand, or pumice, or zeolite, or perlite 30%
However, the successful rose planting in a pot, in addition to the appropriate soil mix, requires – what else? – a pot. But what is the right size? Probably, it is not more than twice the size of the root system of the rose – either the rose is a bare root plant, or a packaged or containerized.
The Bare Root Rose Planting in the Garden
Having finished with all the necessary preparations, the plant lover is ready to do the big jump, which is nothing less than the rose planting in the garden.
And the courageous plant lover actually starts with a bare root rose, which he had left for about twelve hours in a water bucket.
- Fills a quantity of the soil mixture as much as to create a cone
- Carefully examines the rose and trim by removing any dead, damaged, or any broken roots
- The same done with the canes, also removing all those with a thickness of less than 1 cm
- Spreads and, if necessary, “disengages” with great care the root system of the plant
- Disperses a mycorrhizal preparation on the roots
- Places the rose on top of the cone of the soil mixture with the roots spread outIt ensures that the plant’s bud union is at the same level as the surface of the soil or when it is planted in particularly cold areas 2 to 5 cm below, but always having in mind that if the rose is grafted, when the minimum temperature is usually higher than -6 °C (21.2 °F) then the graft union must be above the ground surface, otherwise it must be covered
- Fills the hole with soil and tampsit lightly, mainly at the periphery of the hole, to eliminate any air pockets
- Gentle flows of plenty water to settle the soil – and if he smokes, he lights up a cigarette or, otherwise, just waits until the water drains
- After draining the water, if it is necessary he adds soil mixture to fill the hole
- Repeats with plenty of water
- Finally, he trims the plant to two to five strong canes 20 to 30 cm (8-12 in) long, and then, if he smokes, lights up another one cigarette or, otherwise, just waits for the upcoming luxuriant blossoming of the rose plant
The Containerized or Packaged Rose Planting in the Garden
Having finished with all the necessary preparations, the plant lover (we have rewritten it?), is ready to do the big jump (bah, we would remember), which is nothing less than the containerized or packaged rose planting in garden. The process is the same for both types of roses and the plant lover begins with the containerized rose.
- Removes the rose from container, which had been well watered the previous day
- Carefully ‘loosen’ the soil in the lower half of root system
- Removes any broken or injured roots or canes
- Puts the rose in the hole, to which it had previously added a minimum of soil mixture
- Ensures that the plant is located in the center of hole and that the upper part of the soil ball is at the same level as the surface of the soil or if rose is grafted, as described above
- Fills with the soil mixture the hole and tamps it lightly
- Applies the half of the recommended dose of mycorrhizal preparation and water well, avoiding to damp the foliage and any flowers
- If he smokes, he lights up a cigarette or, otherwise, just waits until the water drains
- After draining the water, adds soil mixture to fill the hole and additionally applies the remainder of the recommended dose of mycorrhizal preparation
- Repeats with plenty of water
- After that, spreads a layer of organic material, such as pine bark, 7 to 10 cm (2.8-4 in)
thick in the planting area, but leaves a zone of about 5 cm around the main stem of the rose plant
- The whole editorial team of ‘Kalliergeia‘ applauds
Rose Planting in Pots & Containers
For the rose planting in the pot, the plant lover uses the soil mixture that he has made. However, he adds 50 g of controlled release fertilizer of type 10-10-10 or 8-8-8 as well as 10 g of sulfur.
Homogenizes the mixture, but before he starts planting treats each type of rose as described above.
He removes any broken or injured roots or canes smaller than 1 cm, while for packaged or the container-grown roses, additionally takes care to loosen the soil slightly.
Afterwards he begins to plant as follows:
- He adds on the bottom of the pot – which of course has holes – a layer of 2 to 3 cm thick with pumice or gravel
- Then fills so much soil so the rose will sit in such a way that the upper surface of the soil is 3 to 4 cm below the edges of the pot
- After that, fills the pot with the soil mixture, applies the half of the recommended amount of mycorrhizal and flows of plenty water
- Then, if he is a smoker he lights up a cigarette and expects to drain the water, and if he is not a smoker just waiting
- When the soil has settled, fills again with the soil mixture, applies the remaining amount of mycorrhiza and water
- After the water has drained, he spreads a layer of organic material such as pine bark, 2 to 3 cm thick
- If is a smoker he lights up another cigarette and smiles or if he does not smoke, just feels proud for the admirable result
The References of an even more concise article of ‘Kalliergeia‘, such as Rose Planting in Garden, Pots & Containers, are presented by the veteran ensemble The Stooges with their animal lover song I Wanna Be Your Dog.
- Austin, D., & Beales, P. (2005). Botanica’s Roses: The Encyclopedia of Roses.
- Hains, P. (2014). Growing Roses in Subtropical Climates.
- Hass, R., Olson, J., & Whitman, J. (2012). Growing Roses in Cold Climates. Minneapolis, MN: University of Minnesota Press.
- Quest-Ritson, C., & Quest-Ritson, B. (2003). American Rose Society Encyclopedia of Roses. London, England: Dk Pub.
- Rosa sp.: EPPO Global Database
- Roses, How To Plant: Everett E. Janne, Extension Landscape Horticulturist (Deceased) – Texas A&M University System
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